Café des Nattes
Tunisia's most famous café in the heart of the village, on the marabout square. Traditional carpets on the floor (« nattes »), carved wood, hookah, mint tea. Klee, Foucauld and Macke all visited.
Sidi Bou Saïd, perched on a cliff above the Mediterranean 20 km north of Tunis, is Tunisia's most photographed village: dazzling white houses with cobalt blue doors and windows, alleyways abloom with bougainvillaea, Moorish cafés with views over the bay.
Sidi Bou Saïd, perched on a cliff above the Mediterranean 20 km north of Tunis, is Tunisia's most photographed village: dazzling white houses with cobalt blue doors and windows, alleyways abloom with bougainvillaea, Moorish cafés with views over the bay. This artists' paradise (Klee, Macke and Foucauld stayed here) inspired the « Sidi Bou Saïd blue » which now adorns hundreds of Mediterranean villages.
The site has been inhabited since Antiquity. The Phoenicians and later the Romans built villas here to enjoy the exceptional views. The current name comes from the marabout Sidi Bou Saïd El Béji (1156–1231), a Sufi saint buried in the village. The zaouïa housing his tomb became a major spiritual centre of the Shadhili Sufi brotherhood.
In the 18th century, Sidi Bou Saïd remained a fishing village. In the early 20th century, French baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger (1872–1932), orientalist painter and musician, purchased the imposing Ennejma Ezzahra palace and worked to preserve the village. He convinced the French protectorate authorities to impose an architectural regulation in 1915 prohibiting modern construction: only white façades and blue woodwork were permitted. This charter, still in force today, makes the village unique.
In the 20th century, Sidi Bou Saïd attracted artists: Paul Klee painted here in 1914, August Macke and Louis Moilliet accompanied him. Michel Foucauld stayed here. The Café des Nattes became legendary. Today, the village is a major tourist destination but preserves its authenticity thanks to the architectural charter and the limitation of hotels (only Dar Saïd 5*). UNESCO is studying a candidacy.
6 must-see sites selected by our local team.
Tunisia's most famous café in the heart of the village, on the marabout square. Traditional carpets on the floor (« nattes »), carved wood, hookah, mint tea. Klee, Foucauld and Macke all visited.
Orientalist residence built in 1922 by baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger. Moorish lounges, Andalusian gardens, museum of Arab musical instruments (lute, oud, qanun, tabla). Exceptional views.
Paved square in the village centre featuring the zaouïa (mausoleum) of the eponymous saint. Typical atmosphere: jasmine sellers, photography, panoramic views.
Vertiginous 130 m descent to the charming fishing port. Waterfront fish restaurants, peaceful beach.
18th-century aristocratic residence transformed into a museum by the El Annabi family. Columned patio, ornate mokhtars, traditional wedding photographs.
Historic café perched on the clifftop with panoramic terrace. Quieter than Café des Nattes. Exceptional sunset views.
A journey through the eras that shaped Sidi Bou Saïd.
Mausoleum of the Sufi saint Sidi Bou Saïd El Béji (1156–1231), master of the Chadili brotherhood. Austere architecture typical of Sufi sanctuaries: white dome, prayer hall, central tomb covered with a green shroud. Active pilgrimage site.
Orientalist residence built by baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger (1872–1932), orientalist painter, musicologist and defender of Tunisian heritage. Traditional Moorish architecture with patios, decorated salons, terraced Andalusian garden, bay views. Today houses the Centre for Arab and Mediterranean Music (CMAM).
Regulations imposed by Baron d'Erlanger and French protectorate authorities, still in force today: only white façades and cobalt blue doors/windows are permitted. All new construction must respect traditional style. This device, unique worldwide, has preserved the village's visual unity for 110 years.
Sufi, malouf and arabo-Andalusian music concerts in the palace. Exceptional acoustics, intimate atmosphere.
Flight Djerba–Tunis 1 hour + TGM 30 minutes. Car: 6 hours 45 minutes. TGM from Tunis Marine: 30 minutes, 3 DT, Sidi Bou Saïd station. Taxi from Tunis: 25 DT, 30 minutes.
Entirely pedestrian village. Paid parking at entrance. Taxis for descent to port.
Half a day is sufficient: village visit 2h + Ennejma Palace 1h30 + Café des Nattes break 30 min. Ideal in the afternoon to photograph the sunset.
Yes, it's the classic itinerary. TGM connects the two in 15 min. Carthage in the morning (archaeological sites), fish lunch at Sidi Bou Saïd harbour, afternoon village + sunset.
The only 5* hotel is Dar Saïd, a restored Ottoman architectural jewel (€220 per night). Several charming Dar guesthouses (Dar Saïd Aïcha, La Villa Bleue) at €80–150.
More expensive than Tunis: coffee at Café des Nattes 8 DT (vs 2 DT in the city), restaurants 30–50 DT/person, tourist shops. But no entrance fee for the village.
Our local team designs your ideal Sidi Bou Saïd programme. Private car or group place, the cheapest on the market.